After Dark, Colonial Granada Turns to Cocktails
It’s Friday night in Granada, and the streets of this tiny metropolis are like one big open-air social network. Founded in 1524 by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba, the city of Granada became a Nicaraguan hub for wealth and power. Today, this historic hotspot is one of the best places in Central America to view pristine colonial architecture, take Spanish classes and do volunteer work. And the vibe is as relaxed as the calm waters of Lake Nicaragua that ripple by its side. The abundance of charming small hotels at a variety of price points — many set inside formerly private mansions — makes Granada an ideal base for exploring the region’s natural wonders (even the most luxurious choices, Hotel Plaza Colon and Hotel Dario, are reasonably priced).
After days spent exploring volcanoes, gliding through canopy tours and cruising one of the world’s few lakes inhabited by freshwater sharks, visitors repair to the city center to socialize. Beer drinkers reach for Toña, a local Nica favorite, while those in the mood for an authentically local cocktail ask for a macuá, the so-called national drink of Nicaragua, which blends Flor de Caña rum with guava, lemon and orange juice and sugary simple syrup, with decidedly refreshing results.
One of the best places to sip this sunny concoction is La Calzada, the pedestrian street lined with open-air bars and restaurants. Stake a table at Margarita Bar & Grill, which has an extensive drinks menu, or Don Luca, where tasty gourmet pizza is the draw, and you’ll be in for some good people watching. New on the scene — and just a couple blocks away — is Encuentros, a stylish new restaurant/bar set in a lovingly restored former home. This high-ceilinged venue serves international cuisine and hosts movie nights (about $5 gets you a seat and a drink) as well as lively parties in its courtyard swimming pool, while visitors hankering for cool relief from the mid-day sun can make good use of the $5 pool day pass.
Also popular after dark is Doña Conchi, an open-air nightspot where live bands fill the air with salsa, merengue and rock. For a more intimate ambiance, night owls cross the street to Buddha Vivo, the city’s only Indian restaurant, which opened this year in a dramatically candlelit open-air garden, where the curry-laden dishes can be accompanied by lazy puffs from a hookah. But since everything in Granada is within walking distance, it doesn’t really matter where you start your evening, or where you finish. Granada itself is the attraction.
Image by Carlos Adampol