Grand Temples And Lychee Cocktails In Siem Reap
Though it may not be planted on the tourist map as firmly as some of its South East Asian neighbors, more and more people are losing themselves in Cambodia's charms than ever before, thanks to a well-trodden path between its two main cities, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
The latter of these has gained popularity through its close proximity to the visually stunning series of temples at Angkor Wat, and while this may be the obvious reason to visit Siem Reap, the city is also home to a surprisingly buzzing nightlife scene.
Though Phnom Penh may boast an edgy charm of its own, first impressions of Siem Reap suggested a superior nightlife to Cambodia's capital, partly due to the self-explanatory "Pub Street" (not quite as brash as it sounds), west of the river, offering a plethora of watering holes, ranging from quasi-classy bars to raucous booze dens.
My own Pub Street journey began with an acceptable (but over-spiced) ginger mojito at Banana Leaf - whose outdoor seating is perfect for people-watching - before crossing the street to Le Tigre De Papier, a wonderful bar and restaurant (also offering traditional Cambodian cooking classes) full of lanterns, bookshelves and oversized white leather seating, where I sampled my first of Cambodia's beers, Angkor. As well as a good range of domestic beers, many Cambodian bars also serve a selection of other South East Asian lagers — the finest of which is Beerlao, a delicious Laotian tipple.
Moving next door to the cheekily named Angkor What? bar was a change of pace. This dark, grungy bar is an institution with expats and backpackers in the city, thanks to cheap drinks (incidentally, U.S. visitors to Siem Reap will have it easy — the U.S. dollar is the primary currency almost everywhere in the city, but also equip yourself with some local currency, the Riel, for smaller purchases), loud music and some nice UV graffiti covering every available inch of space. If you want late drinking and crowds of people, look no further.
I ended my Pub Street crawl at Red Piano (one of the slicker bars on the stretch, serving a range of Belgian beers), before moving to the ominously named X Bar, which towers over the far end of Pub Street. Don't be put off by the name — it's actually a great late-bar, with resident DJs playing some decent drum 'n' bass on the night I visited.
The next day, after a painfully early rickshaw journey to catch sunrise at Angkor Wat — an awe-inspiring sight — and taking in numerous other temples (including the incredible Ta Prohm, with huge gothic trees growing through the ruins), I headed back to Siem Reap for a relaxed night. A glass of crisp white wine at the funky beaches located east of the river was a good start, followed by dinner and cocktails at the superb Foreign Correspondents' Club, a subtly lavish art deco hotel with attached bar and restaurant (renovated from a French governor's mansion) that has gained a deservedly high reputation thanks to excellent, thoughtful menus and a refined atmosphere unmatched in Siem Reap.
Not quite as aesthetically inspiring as FCC, but coming a close second, is Nest, a sleek bar with a lush, outdoor feel, thanks to its marquee enclosure, water features and tasteful greenery. It actually attracts a hipper crowd than FCC and has a commendably huge choice of wines and spirits, including some choice vodkas. The cocktails I tried were also mixed to perfection, and a 'Cambodge-tini' — Skyy Vodka, Martini dry and lychee liqueur — supplied me with a refreshing end to my time in the city.
Offering a delightful overdose of both culture and leisure, Siem Reap is a fantastic place to visit, but be quick to do so before the masses get there — they're moving in fast.
